Manchu Court Necklace
Artist
Chinese
DateQing Dynasty
Mediumjadeite, amethyst, rose quartz and other stones: kingfisher feathers, silk, metal
Dimensions94 cm (37 in.)
ClassificationsCostumes and Accessories
Credit LineBequest of Mrs. Harry W. Goddard, in memory of Harry W. Goddard
Object number1938.43
DescriptionComposed of small jade beads with three large amethyst beads and dangling ornaments of amethyst and a pendant of jade and amethyst set with kingfisher feathers; one pendant separatedLabel TextManchu Court Necklace Jadeite, amethyst, rose quartz; other stones; kingfisher feathers; silk; metal Qing dynasty (1644 - 1911), 18th - 19th century Bequest of Mrs. Harry W. Goddard, in memory of Harry W. Goddard, 1938.43 The ceremonial court dress of the Manchu rulers included a chaozhu, a necklace which had evolved from the Buddhist rosary. A decree issued in 1664 mandated that civil officials of the fifth rank and above, and military officials fourth rank and above should wear these "counting beads." Chaozu consisted of 108 small beads symbolizing the 12 lunar months, 24 solar periods and 72 five-day weeks of the Chinese year. The 108 beads were assembled into four groups of 27 beads each, separated by 4 large beads called "Buddha heads" (fo-tou). A long cloth strand with pendants was attached to the largest bead at the top of the necklace; it hung down the wearer's back, acting as a counterweight. Three short bead-strings were attached to the necklace; each string had 10 beads divided into two sets of 5 beads and ended in a pendant. The single string kept track of individual prayer circuits; the other two strings of tens and hundreds of circuits. Men wore two strings on the left and one on the right [see detail of reprod. Portrait of the Qianlong Emperor (r. 1736-95), Age 25, ca. 1736, attrib. Giuseppe Castiglione (1688-1766); color on silk; Palace Museum, Beijing]. Women wore the strings in the reverse manner.
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