Embroidered processional cross
Artist/Culture
Italian
Date15th or early 16th century
Mediumsilk, wool, and vegetable fiber embroidery on linen backing, trimmed with metallic thread, mounted on silk velvet with silk damask backing
Dimensions198.1 x 55.9 cm (78 x 22 in.)
ClassificationsTextiles
Credit LineMuseum Purchase
Object number1919.117
DescriptionBacking: burgundy silk damask in 3 pieces, the 2 larger ones of the same weave, the smaller one different. Multiple repair campaigns are visible. Some soiling, which has led to disintegration of the fibers in places. All pieces show one selvage edge. One line of laying stitches in white meanders lengthwise along the back.Front, cross: Composed of three pieces, head, crosspiece, shaft, each fringed with trim of metallic thread. The crosspiece overlaps a large part of the head, but only slightly overlaps the shaft.
The head register shows Saint Barbara with a tower and book. The crosspiece has a Nativity scene (Jesus, Mary, Joseph, ox, ass), flanked by a shepherd on each side. The top register of the shaft has a saint (Anthony?) bearing a cross-headed staff. The middle register of the shaft has a saint bearing a book and unidentified attribute. The bottom register has Saint Paul bearing a sword and book.
The saints are all represented in architectural niches, flanked by columns. They are executed as separate appliques stitched to the main substrate. The middle two have halos highlighted with metallic thread.
The threads are diverse, with multiple blues, greens, ivories, browns, reds, yellows, pinks, purple. Certain colors have faded and are no longer recognizable, and some remaining colors have changed over time. A wide variety of stitches is also used, some built up over heavy, twine-like yarns.
The edging trim is made of two distinct threads. The anchor threads running along the line of the edging have a yellow thread core, and appear to be wrapped with flattened gold wire. The fringing loop trim has a pale thread at its core and may be wrapped with a combination of flattened gold and silver wire.
The linen backing can be seen in places where the threads have disintegrated; anchor stitching is also visible in these areas.
Front, backing: Red velvet backing in 3 parts, fringed with trim of metallic thread. This trim matches that of the cross itself, which may indicate that the backing is original, though there are also signs that the trim has been moved in places.
ProvenanceAmerican Art Association, New York
On View
Not on view
about 1680
late 1700s-early 1800s
